Netherland Dwarf, 10.5 years old
Dutch, 12 years old
Rams passed away peacefully in his papa’s arms at 7:15am on December 14, 2013 with mama and Eddy by his side. He took his last breath in his papa’s arms and grind his teeth one last time to let us know he was happy. Rambo was very ill. He had a stroke on November 25 and soon after he developed a head tilt. He was fighting so hard and he was getting better but he had another stroke and he became paralyzed. Even though he couldn’t move anymore he was still bright and alert. We told him that if he wanted to fight we will keep fighting with him but if he was ready to go we understand. Sadly, he had another stroke and his little body just couldn’t fight anymore. Thanks for all the happy memories Rams. We will cherish them forever.
What does rabbit proofing involve?
Rabbit Proofing one’s home involves three things: 1) Preventing destruction of your property; 2) Protecting your companion rabbit(s) from harm; and 3) Providing safe and fun chewing alternatives for your rabbit.
Why is rabbit proofing your home so important?
Preventing rabbits from chewing on electrical cords is of utmost importance, since rabbits can be badly burned or electrocuted. The consequences of biting into an electric wire are too severe to risk relying on training alone. Instead, you must take action to move the cords safely out of reach. Some ways of doing this follow.
So how do I keep electrical cords out of reach?
Spiral cable wrap Radio Shack sells something called “spiral cable wrap”. It costs about $3 for 10 feet and works like a charm for most, but not every bunny. (Some still manage to chew through it.)
This stuff is very flexible so the cords are still manageable after wrapping. It works well with cords that you might have in the middle of the room or might move quite often, such as vacuum cleaner, phone, video game, extension, lamp and other cords. I keep my portable computer cord wrapped this way, and it’s not too bulky.
Plastic tubing (similar to that used in fish tanks, or with “swamp coolers”) from a hardware or aquarium store can be slit lengthwise with a blade and the wire can be tucked safely inside. A harder, black, pre-slit type of tubing is also available.
Decorative gold and wood-grained wire-concealers that stick to the base of walls come in strips, corners, etc., so they can follow the shape of the wall. This is a more costly and time consuming method than the clear plastic tubing above, but is more permanent, and rabbit proof, as well.
Of course, Wires can be run behind or above furniture and carpets, but do NOT run your wires under carpets, as this can create a serious fire risk.
How do I keep my rabbit from eating house plants?
Many house plants are toxic. Putting them on high furniture may not keep a rabbit away. Hang them from the ceiling if you have an active bunny, but watch for falling leaves! If you are unsure which plants may be toxic, the House Rabbit Handbook has a complete list of poisonous plants (indoors and outdoors), as do two back issues of House Rabbit Journal.
How do I protect baseboards and wooden furniture?
If a rabbit insists on chewing baseboards, edges of chairs, etc., a board can be put over the places of temptation, making them inaccessible while also providing an acceptable chewing surface. This method should be combined with training your rabbit not to chew on these items.
How do I protect upholstered furniture and beds?
Upholstered furniture and beds that are several inches off the ground are wonderful places for rabbits to hide underneath. However, some will burrow up into the soft underside and make a nest. A flat cardboard box or frame of 2x4s, smaller than the area of the future base, will keep the rabbit out, and won’t be seen from human level.
How do I protect walls?
Clear plastic panels from the hardware or plastic supply store can be affixed to the wall to protect against your rabbit chewing into the sheetrock or tearing off the wallpaper. Placing furniture over that spot can also conceal the damage and protect against further chewing.
Primary Author: Nancy LaRoche
Primary Photographer: Mary Ann Maier
Sources: HRH, various articles from the HRJ, RHN
SOURCE: HOUSE RABBIT SOCIETY
A letter from Rambo about bunny ownership
Yes, bunnies are very cute. But please do not buy bunnies on a whim. Do your research first. Rabbits are a 10-12 + years commitment. They are a lot of work, as much work as a dog (if not more work than a dog when cared for properly).
Vet bills can be very expensive because bunnies are considered exotic pets in Canada and require an Exotic Animal Veterinarian which is usually more expensive than a cat or dog vet. Our family has worked very hard to take good care of me & my brother Eddy. To date they have invested $6,700 in (unexpected) vet bills to save my life. I am a special needs and disabled rabbit. We are not saying all bunnies cost this much. This was our family’s personal experience. So before you get a pet of any kind please think it through and research first to make sure the pet fit your personality & circumstances & that you are prepared and willing to pay for unexpected veterinary care.
I enjoy sharing my bunny life with everyone and it makes me so happy that my cuteness makes you happy. But in all seriousness I’m also here to raise awareness about rabbit ownership, proper rabbit care as well as pet adoption. For more info about bunnies check out www.rabbit.org
- Cut the top from organic store bought carrots. You will need one inch (see picture).
- Place carrot stump and balance it on top of a small container.
- Fill the glass with water up to and barely touching the bottom edge of the stump. Set the glass in a light, but not sunny window.
- Add water to keep it touching the edge and watch the roots sprout. Change water daily.
- Once carrot stump sprouts roots, plant in soil.
|Store bought organic carrots|
|Plant in soil|
|Enjoy om nom nom RAMBO APPROVES|
Thank you so much for entering our Bunnymama2013 Bunstruction contest. I really enjoyed seeing all your pics! Amazing job bunnies! We went through all the photos and here are some our favorites. Winners will be announced tomorrow 🙂
MYTH: RABBITS ARE LOW MAINTENANCE
THE TRUTH IS: They may not need walked like dogs do, but they are definitely not low maintenance! Their living quarters need to cleaned daily. They need fresh food and water every day, including a fresh salad of washed dark green leafy vegetables. Regular veterinary care starting with spay or neuter is a must. Certain rabbit health problems become chronic and require regular (and sometimes expensive) veterinary treatment. To complicate the matter, veterinarians skilled in rabbit medicine are not easy to find.
MYTH: RABBITS ONLY LIVE A YEAR OR TWO
THE TRUTH IS: A well cared for indoor rabbit can live 7-10 years, and some live into their teens. This is similar to some breeds of dogs, and they require the same long-term commitment.
MYTH: RABBITS DON’T NEED VETERINARY CARE THE WAY DOGS AND CATS DO
THE TRUTH IS: Although Rabbits do not need regular vaccinations in the United States, they do require regular veterinary checkups to detect small problems before they become big problems. Companion rabbits all need to be spayed/neutered by a veterinarian experienced in rabbit surgery. This is necessary to reduce the hormone-driven behaviors such as lunging, mounting, spraying, and boxing. It also protects the females from the risk of uterine cancer, the risk of which grows by 50% as rabbits grow older.
MYTH: RABBITS ARE HAPPY OUTDOORS IN A BACK YARD HUTCH
THE TRUTH IS: If they are kept outdoors in a hutch they are often forgotten and neglected once the novelty wears off. Frequently they are relegated to a life of solitary confinement and suffer the extremes of weather, as well as diseases spread by fleas, ticks, flies and mosquitoes. They can die of heart attacks from the very approach of a predator—even if the rabbit is not bitten. Rabbits are social animals and enjoy social contact with their human care-takers. The easiest way to provide social stimulation for a companion rabbit is to have him live indoors as a member of the family.
MYTH: RABBITS ARE DIRTY AND HAVE A STRONG ODOR
THE TRUTH IS: Rabbits are immaculately clean, and once they have matured and are spayed/neutered they will not soil their living quarters. They will readily use a litter box, and if the box is cleaned or changed daily, there is no offensive odor.
MYTH: RABBITS LOVE TO BE PICKED UP AND CUDDLED
THE TRUTH IS: Some rabbits tolerate being handled, while many more do not like to be picked up and carried. If rabbits are mishandled they will learn to nip to protect themselves. If they feel insecure when carried they may scratch to get down. If they are unspayed/unneutered they will exhibit territorial behavior such as ”boxing” or nipping when their territory is invaded by the owner.
MYTH: RABBITS—ESPECIALLY DWARF BREEDS—DO NOT NEED MUCH SPACE
THE TRUTH IS: Rabbits have powerful hind legs designed for running and jumping. They need living space that will permit them ample freedom of movement even when they are confined. Dwarf rabbits tend to be even more active and energetic than some larger breeds, and require more space.
MYTH: RABBITS CAN BE LEFT ALONE FOR A DAY OR TWO WHEN OWNERS TRAVEL
THE TRUTH IS: Rabbits need daily monitoring. Problems arise quickly in rabbits. If a rabbit stops eating, for even one day, it could be a life-threatening situation and require immediate veterinary attention.
MYTH: RABBITS DO FINE WITH JUST RABBIT FOOD
THE TRUTH IS: The most important part of a rabbit’s diet is grass hay. Hay needs to be provided as a free choice daily. Rabbit pellets should only be provided in limited quantities and be a pellet made from timothy hay without corn or other additives. Rabbits also need a daily fresh “salad” of mixed dark leafy greens, like parsley, romaine, kale, cilantro, endive etc. for health and nutrition.
Information provided by Rabbitron.com